Nov 2, 2010

Maasai Market

So, let me tell you all about the Maasai Market. The Maasai are one of the tribes here in Kenya. They are known for their interesting culture: ornate jewelry, elongated earlobes, and unique dances including lots of jumping. Well on different days, at different locations around the city they set up huge markets selling handmade goods. You can find congas (large Kenyan fabrics), jewelry, sandals, paintings, wood carvings, clay work, basically anything African-looking. The goods are quite exquisite and always fun to view for a westener. There are no tables displaying the items, just sheets and what not on the ground. The sellers normally sit on the ground behind their goods. Everybody is just about as squished together as you could get too. Very little walking room between the rows and rows of sellers. Of course there are no price tags, it's all the bargain system. Sometimes it's even a barter system. I can, of course, only describe the scene from a blonde, young, female, very white, western point of view. As I walk through the crowds, it's always crowded, sellers constantly call out "sista, sista!" trying to get my attention. Some other phrases that bounce around are: "looking is free" "take a look at my things" "take your time" "come and see what I make" etc. If they try to make a personal connection, which they often do, I'll hear: "what is your name" "where are you from" "Canada? Britain? Australia" if I dare answer America they are bound to ask which state and say something about Obama. I have had quite a few rather long conversations with people while trying to be polite. This however does not suit me very well because I do not like to be pressured into buying something. So, after maybe my second visit, I took on the silent ignorance approach. I place a slight smile on my face and just walk and look, being sure to never linger too long on one item or in one place. They continually say the same phrases, but when I do not respond add on: "oh, not talking" like that will make me talk. The only time I open my mouth is when I want to buy something. When I start looking intently on a certain area, I immediately respond "just looking" to the inquiries until I am ready to bargain. This is quite an adventure and usually leaves the barterer exhausted. I plan my bid in my head, sometimes offering first, sometimes asking first. I, as a mzungu (white person), typically recieve a price at least double what I should pay. Often triple. So, I immediately counter-offer a fourth of that. There are typically little laughs and surprised looks from both parties. We then bid back and forth with comments in between like: seller: "oh this is good price" me:"this is no a good price, I live here" seller: "oh you live here! I give you good deal" me:"what's your good deal?" seller:" that my best price, good deal" me:"that's not a good deal" seller:"but I make with my own hands! do you see these hands? this takes long time to make" me:"yes, i see your hands, it is very nice, I want to buy but i need good price" seller:"what is your best price? oh do better than that" And then it continues on and on and on and on until I get the price I want, close to the price I want, or I just walk away. When I walk away, then of course yell after "sista! sista!" hoping still to sell. I have returned after some of these to get a better price, and sometimes I have to walk away again. I will not be taken advantage of because I'm white. I'm a tough buyer, and I've been told that! They will often tell me they'll give me a good deal becasue they like me, I'm a nice person, we're sisters, I'm a missionary and they like missionaries, I'm from Obama's country...the list is endless. But ultimately, they're getting good deals out of us. One trick I pull a lot, is getting out the amount of money I want to pay and handing it to them. Often, they will take the money. Sometimes they will ask for the set amount and coins. Or sometimes, they will ask for a pen, your necklace, or whatever other trinket you may have on you. I haven't obliged yet. So, as you can see the market is quite a tiring adventure. Definitely fun for a cultural experience, but quite annoying after a few visits. The goods that can be bought however, are often worth the fuss.

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